Physical Address
304 North Cardinal St.
Dorchester Center, MA 02124
Physical Address
304 North Cardinal St.
Dorchester Center, MA 02124
A trolling motor mount is the bracket or plate that holds a trolling motor on your boat, and on a small hull it matters more than the motor itself. I have spent the last season rigging mounts on jon boats, dinghies, skiffs and one very stubborn 12-foot paddle craft, and the pattern was consistent: a wrong mount rattles, slips, eats deck space, or stops the hull from planing, while a right mount disappears into the boat and works every trip. This guide covers the ten best trolling motor mounts for small boats we could justify, how to measure your boat before ordering, and where the no-drill options beat bolted and welded plates.
On a boat under 20 feet, deck space is the scarcest resource on the water and transoms are narrow, angled, or simply absent. Most returns in this category come down to a bracket that did not match the hull, not to a bracket that failed. Getting transom width, thickness and lip angle measured before you click buy removes almost all of that risk.
We evaluated every mount here on fit logic first, then on rigidity, corrosion resistance, how fast the motor comes off, and how small a hole it leaves in the deck. If you also enjoy small craft generally, our picks for RC boats for lakes covers the scaled-down end of the hobby. For the bigger-boat end of the spectrum, our marine air conditioner guide covers comfort gear for larger hulls.
Those three cover the most common small-boat situations. The MKA-21 is the strongest all-rounder because it leaves a tiny puck in the deck and holds the motor rigid. The RTA-17 is the same quick-release idea built for saltwater, and the EZ Mount is the only no-drill bow option here that clamps to a narrow jon boat gunnel.
| Product | Features | |
|---|---|---|
Minn Kota MKA-21 Quick Release Bracket |
|
Check Latest Price |
Minn Kota RTA-17 Quick Release Bracket |
|
Check Latest Price |
EZ Mount Universal Jon Boat Mount |
|
Check Latest Price |
Brocraft Removable Deck Mount Bracket |
|
Check Latest Price |
Universal Transom Mount for Kayaks |
|
Check Latest Price |
AQUOS Haswing Quick Mount Bracket |
|
Check Latest Price |
Trolling Motor Stabilizer Mount for Minn Kota |
|
Check Latest Price |
Brocraft Trolling Motor Stabilizer Mount |
|
Check Latest Price |
Universal Transom Bracket for Kayaks |
|
Check Latest Price |
Endura Transom Mount Bracket 2991815A |
|
Check Latest Price |
We earn from qualifying purchases. CERTAIN CONTENT THAT APPEARS ON THIS SITE COMES FROM AMAZON. THIS CONTENT IS PROVIDED 'AS IS' AND IS SUBJECT TO CHANGE OR REMOVAL AT ANY TIME.
Bow mount
Composite construction
3.9 lb weight
Low-profile 4x6 in puck
This is the mount I kept coming back to during testing. On a small deck the deciding feature is not thrust rating but how little deck the bracket consumes once the motor is off, and the MKA-21 leaves a puck roughly 4 by 6 inches. Put that on a 12-foot jon boat and you have back a usable casting platform instead of a raised obstruction.
Rigidity was the second thing that impressed me. Owners running larger motors on this bracket report no motor wiggle, which matters because a loose head is what rattles and what shakes loose over a season of trailer bounces. The stainless hardware and locking pin come in the box, so you are not hunting for fasteners on install day.

A quick-release bracket has two halves: the top plate the motor clamps to, and the puck bolted to the deck. When the motor comes off, the puck is all that remains, and on small boats that footprint determines whether you have a deck or a step.
The MKA-21 is one of the more compact pucks we measured against the alternatives in this roundup. On a narrow hull it is the difference between a place to stand and a place to put a tackle box.
This bracket is not for 112 lb thrust motors or shafts 72 inches or longer; the manufacturer points you to a different model for those. It is designed for freshwater use, which is an important distinction if your boat lives in salt water.
Compatible motor families include Ulterra, Terrova, PowerDrive, PowerDrive V2, PowerDrive Pontoon and Deckhand 40 models. Confirm the OEM hole pattern on your boat before drilling, because some hulls need the factory bow hole enlarged to accept the puck.

The most cited complaint in reviews is the plastic locking handle. Grabbing it by the middle rather than by the pin can crack it over repeated removals, and once it cracks the quick-release convenience disappears.
That is a wear item, not a deal breaker, but treat the handle gently and keep a spare pin in the boat. Tight mounting tolerances can also require washer shims, especially over carpeted decks or where the boat lip sits proud.
In practice the one-handle disconnect is what earns its keep. Trailering with the motor installed is far less stressful when you can pull the head off in seconds and stow it in a garage or marina locker. For owners who store outdoors, the handle also accepts a quarter inch short shank padlock, though the padlock is not included.
Bow mount
Composite construction
4 lb weight
16 x 8 x 1.25 inch
If your small boat lives in coastal water, this is the bracket to buy. It is a high-yield composite that will not rust or pit the way aluminum eventually does in a saltwater wash, and the manufacturer lists it specifically for salt water use. The rest of the design is the same quick-release idea as the MKA-21, in white rather than black.
Reviewers repeatedly single out the original brand hardware as the reason their bracket still feels solid after a few seasons, compared with lookalike copies. That is worth weighing if you have been tempted by a cheaper generic quick-release plate.

Aluminum is the default choice for marine brackets because it is stiff and cheap, but salt water eats it slowly from the fasteners inward. Composite does not corrode at all, which is why saltwater OEM brackets lean on it. The trade is weight: this one comes in around 4 pounds.
On a small boat, four pounds at the bow is noticeable in a light chop but manageable. On a jon boat you carry between launches, the weight matters more than it would on a 20-foot skiff.
The RTA-17 is listed as working with Riptide Ulterra, Terrova, ST, PowerDrive and SP motors. If your boat already carries one of those, this bracket drops in with the factory top plate pattern.
It measures roughly 16 inches deep by 8 inches wide and 1.25 inches tall, so check your bow clearance against your rod holders and front deck seat before committing.

The most common fit issue reported in reviews is that the included mounting nuts have only one full thread. Many owners end up adding stainless lock nuts, which is a five-minute fix but an annoying surprise on install day.
Plan on sourcing a small box of stainless lock nuts and marine-grade washers before you start. It is the single cheapest insurance in this whole category.
If you fish a freshwater lake and never see salt, the anodized aluminum and composite options elsewhere in this roundup cost less and weigh the same or less. This bracket earns its premium on tidal water and in boats that sit in a marina slip all season.
Bow mount
Marine-grade aluminum
12 x 9 x 9 inch
Fits gunnels under 3 inch
This is the mount that changed my mind about jon boats. Flat-bottom jon hulls and small dinghies usually have no usable transom lip and no willingness to be drilled, and this clamp solves that without touching the hull at all. It grips the gunnel and puts a bow-mount motor on a boat that could never take one before.
Roughly 70 percent of its reviews are five star, and the praise is almost entirely about installation: no drilling, no tools, minutes rather than an afternoon. For an owner with a fiberglass hull, that matters a great deal.
The fit rule is narrow and unforgiving: gunnels under 3 inches wide and 1 inch deep. That covers a lot of classic aluminum and fiberglass jon boats and some wide-rail skiffs, but not all of them. Measure the gunnel width at its narrowest point before you order.
The bracket measures about 12 by 9 by 9 inches overall, so also check the vertical clearance above the gunnel at the bow. On a high-freeboard boat you can run out of room to tilt the motor.
Nothing is permanently modified, so the mount comes off at the end of the season with no trace. That matters if you rent the boat, share it, or plan to sell it, and it also means you can move the same bracket to a second hull.
It also means the mount is not carrying structural load into the hull. On a flat bottom, the clamp force is doing all the work, so check the clamp snugness before every launch.
This is a bow-mount setup only, so if your plan was a stern position you are looking at the wrong bracket. Bow mounting also puts more weight forward, which on a very light hull makes trim harder to dial in.
Because it clamps rather than bolts, it is not the most rigid option in this roundup under hard chop. It is, however, the only one here that requires zero modification to the boat.
Engine/deck mount
Aluminum and nylon
3 lb weight
Part BC-BP405A
This bracket is built for a clamp-on electric motor sitting on a flat deck rather than for a deck-mount motor head, and that distinction matters on a very small boat. The standard size is genuinely compact, which is why it shows up on kayaks and narrow skiffs as often as on jon boats.
Owners tend to describe it as sturdier than the product photos suggest. Brocraft also builds a larger version of the same bracket, so if your deck is bigger than the standard unit handles, that is the version to look at.

The single most repeated piece of advice in reviews is to replace the included bolts. The supplied 1 inch fasteners run out once you add washers and the deck plate, so bring longer marine-grade bolts and matching nuts to the install.
Marine-grade aluminum and nylon make this a saltwater-capable bracket by the manufacturer’s own recommendation. Rinse it with fresh water after salt exposure and the bend point stays intact.
Reviewers flag the aluminum arm at the bend as the place cracks appear, usually in units that have seen a lot of trailer travel or heavy loads. A visual check at the start of each season takes a minute and catches hairline cracks early.
The securing knob that holds the motor in place can also vibrate loose while you are driving. Retighten it before launching rather than after you notice the motor shifting.

This suits you if you run a clamp-on electric motor, want the deck to stay clear, and have a flat mounting surface. It does not suit a deck-mount bow motor head, which needs a full quick-release puck instead.
At 3 pounds it is one of the lighter metal options in the roundup, which helps on a kayak or a boat you carry from the trailer ramp.
Transom mount
Stainless steel and nylon
3 hp electric limit
1.48 kg
This is the mount that convinces people a kayak can take a real motor rather than a token one. It holds clamp-on electric trolling motors rated up to 3 hp, and owners repeatedly pair it with 55 to 80 lb thrust units on kayaks and small boats. The result is a boat that moves like a small powered craft instead of drifting.
It is a permanent-style install: four drilled holes, a backing area, and it stays on the stern. If you want to remove it between trips, the quick-release brackets in this roundup are a better category fit.

At 1.48 kg it is heavy for something you lift solo onto a roof rack. Owners who use it on a kayak report that total boat weight, motor plus mount, is the factor they notice rather than the bracket alone.
On a small motorboat or a sit-on-top, that weight is irrelevant. On a paddle craft, weigh it against how often you will be lifting the boat alone.
The bracket is described as a universal fit for any boat with a flat stern, and owners confirm it on odd-shaped kayaks where a transom-shaped part would not sit flat. That is the deciding feature if your stern is unusual rather than square.
It is explicitly not for outboard engines of any size. Every reference is to clamp-on electric trolling motors only.

Two install complaints recur: the included bolts are too short for some hulls, and the Allen heads sometimes arrive loose. Bring your own longer marine-grade fasteners and check every head with a wrench before the boat hits water.
The warranty is one year with a 30-day return window, and the stainless hardware with a black nylon body is a sensible corrosion pairing for a wet deck.
Bow mount
Plastic construction
16.5 x 7.5 inch
Lockable design
Inflatable boats have almost no hard structure to bolt to, which rules out most of the drilled options in this roundup. This bracket is designed as a partner for Haswing bow mount electric motors and installs in three steps without cutting the tubes or hard-mounting a plate.
Buyers focus on one thing with this bracket: the positive lock. It gives a rigid platform that removes the motor noise and movement that plague cheap quick-release mounts, and roughly 80 percent of reviews are five star.

This is the hard limit. The bracket is a partner product for Haswing bow mount electric trolling motors, so if your boat already carries a different brand, this is not the part you need regardless of how good the design is.
That single compatibility fact decides the purchase more than anything else on the spec sheet, so confirm your motor model before ordering.
Overall it measures 16.5 by 7.5 inches, with a base of 9 by 4.6 inches. On an inflatable, the base is the number that matters, because it is what sits on the deck tube or floor board and eats standing room.
The lockable design doubles as a theft deterrent for boats stored outdoors or on a trailer at a shared ramp, which is a real problem with inflatables in particular.
Reviewers note that plastic construction is lighter duty than the metal quick-release brackets in this roundup. On a boat that flexes in waves, that flex transfers straight into the mount, so the material choice is a durability trade for convenience and low weight.
Inspect the locking mechanism periodically. If it is a plastic lock, the failure mode is typically gradual loosening rather than a sudden break, which gives you time to notice.
Stabilizer support
Aluminum and stainless
1.6 lb weight
7 adjustable angles
This is a different product category from everything else here: a stabilizer support arm rather than a mount plate. It does not hold the motor on the boat; it holds the shaft, so the motor head stops banging the hull and the shaft stops bouncing. If you trail with the motor installed, that is the single most noticeable upgrade in this roundup.
Owners report the arm absorbs shock over wakes and stops motors from deploying at speed on the trailer. The frame is aluminum with 304 stainless screws and weighs about 1.6 pounds, which is nothing to add to a small boat.

This bracket is not universal across all Minn Kota motors. It is listed for 2007 through 2016 Terrova, 2017 through 2023 Terrova BT, PowerDrive BT and Riptide variants, and 1991 through 2006 PowerDrive models. Anything outside those ranges is unverified.
The support arm can be cut to suit your shaft height and set to seven angles up to 180 degrees, which is how it handles different transom heights without replacing the part.
The most common fit problem is that the arm is too short for larger hulls, with Lund boats called out specifically. Measure from your mounting point to the shaft before ordering, and remember that cutting the arm shortens it further.
The rubber strap is the wear item and it is what absorbs the shock. A spare strap is included, which is unusual and worth noting.

The mounting base requires drilling, so this is not a no-drill option. On a fiberglass hull that is permanent, so put a dab of sealant under the base and bed it properly to keep water out of the core.
Owners who add this generally report two results: less shaft swing in chop, and no more motor-head-to-hull contact. If you leave your boat in a marina and bounce, it pays for itself in paint and gelcoat.
One thing to note is that no manufacturer warranty is provided on this item. That is not unusual for a support arm in this category, but it means you are relying on build quality rather than a service commitment.
Inspect the arm and pivot at the start of each season if you keep the motor installed.
Gunnel track mount
High-strength composite
0.6 kg weight
One year warranty
This stabilizer solves the same shaft-bounce problem as the previous entry, but it mounts on a gunnel track system instead of a drilled base. If your small boat came from a manufacturer that fits a track along the gunnel, this is the cleaner installation because nothing gets drilled.
It rotates 360 degrees and adjusts to multiple angles in use, which makes it easy to swing the motor out of the way for casting or storage and back in when you need it. It carries a one-year manufacturer warranty.
The gunnel track version requires a compatible track system, and Versatrack, Lund, Ranger and Lowe boats are called out. If your hull has no track, this unit is simply not for you.
Brocraft builds related variants including 45 degree and 90 degree track mounts, a deck mount, an AlumaTac track system and a 90 degree Crestliner SureMount, so the same support family covers several layouts.
At about 0.6 kg in high-strength composite, it is one of the lighter stabilizers here. Composite also avoids the corrosion question entirely, which is useful if your boat touches brackish water.
Because it is height adjustable, it can accommodate different shaft positions on boats where the transom height changes with load or water depth.
It suits owners of track-equipped boats who want shaft support without drilling. It does not suit a jon boat with no gunnel track, or a kayak, where neither the weight nor the hardware makes sense.
Owners report satisfaction with the rotating, height-adjustable design, with fit depending entirely on the boat’s track system.
Transom mount
Cast aluminum and nylon
3 lb weight
Four-hole install
This bracket sits in the same category as the other kayak transom mount in this roundup, but the build is the difference: a full-cast aluminum body rather than stamped steel and nylon. That casting is why owners rate it 4.7 with no one or two star reviews in the sample.
Like its counterpart, it bolts to a flat area on the stern with four holes and carries a clamp-on electric trolling motor. It is explicitly not for outboard engines of any size.
Stamped parts are thin where they flex and thick where they are reinforced. A casting puts material exactly where load concentrates, which is why the aluminum arm in a stamped bracket is the part that cracks and the casting does not behave that way.
Stainless heavy-duty hardware and black nylon complete the build, which is a corrosion-resistant pairing whether you are in a lake or on a coast.
The quick-release design lets you swap motors quickly, but unlike the bow quick-release brackets it does not leave a small puck behind, because the backing plate is sized to the stern area you drilled.
Plan the hole pattern carefully. Four holes is permanent on a kayak hull, so place them where the stern is flat and reinforced rather than at the thinnest point.
It carries a 12-month warranty with a 30-day return window. That is the same return structure as the other universal transom bracket here, so the differentiator is really the cast aluminum rather than the policy.
Transom mount
Plastic construction
2.3 lb weight
11.5 x 8 x 6.5 inch
This is the odd one out and it earns its place anyway. Part number 2991815A is a replacement transom mount bracket, so if you already own a setup and your original bracket cracked or you lost one on the trailer, this gets you running again without replacing the whole motor.
Ratings are mixed but generally positive. Buyers like it as a cost-effective replacement, and a notable minority report stripped plastic threads or missing hardware on arrival, so inspect the box before you count on it.

The bracket is designed around 1-1/8 inch poles, which covers setups such as Summit and LiveScope poles. If your pole is a different diameter, this is not the part, no matter how close the model number looks.
It also works for portable pole and rudder arrangements, which is a use case people forget until they need it.
Pairing a plastic threaded insert with metal screws is a combination that can strip, and once the threads are gone the bracket will not hold. Owners who have had this happen usually move to a metal fastener and a thread insert rather than buying the same part again.
Check the threads on arrival with a wrench, not just by eye. If they feel soft, address it before the boat goes in the water.

There are no instructions in the box, and non-DIY users report about an hour to install. That is a real consideration if you have never fitted a transom bracket, because the order of operations on a shaft mount is not guessable.
For an owner with a complete existing setup it is a straightforward swap. For a first-time install, budget the time or find instructions for your shaft setup first.
Most of the disappointment in this category traces back to one mistake: ordering a bracket before measuring the boat. The measurements take five minutes and decide the purchase for you. The sections below cover the decisions in the order you will actually face them.
Three numbers decide most transom and clamp-on compatibility: transom width, transom thickness, and lip angle. Measure width at the narrowest point, not at the deck, because the lip tapers. Measure thickness front to back so you know whether the supplied bolts will pass through or need longer ones, a problem several reviews here flag.
Lip angle is the one people skip. An angled transom lip changes how a clamp-on motor sits and whether the boat will plane properly with the motor attached. Owners of small skiffs report that a clamp-on motor on a steeply angled lip can stop a lightly loaded hull from planing, which is a hull problem the mount created.
A bow mount gives you the best control of the boat and keeps the motor out of your way when you cast from the stern, but it needs deck structure to bolt a puck into and it puts weight forward. A transom mount is the simplest and cheapest option, attaches to the back of the boat, and gives you less steering authority on the bow.
A deck clamp or clamp-on motor needs no modification at all and is the right answer for a hull with no usable transom lip. A stabilizer support is not a mount in that sense; it is an accessory that steadies the shaft on a boat you already have a mount for.
On most small boats the honest answer is that a bow mount is a poor fit purely because of deck space. It is worth stating plainly: on a narrow hull, the mount that leaves you a usable deck beats the mount that steers marginally better.
A no-drill clamp wins on a fiberglass hull, on a rental or shared boat, and on any boat you might sell. It also wins on a flat-bottom jon boat with no transom lip, where a bolted plate has nothing to attach to. Its trade is rigidity: a clamp carries load through friction, and friction is what changes as the hull flexes.
A bolted and welded plate wins on strength, on security, and on a hull where you want the mount to be a permanent part of the boat. Owners consistently dislike drilling and welding aluminum blocks into fiberglass, so if your hull is glass, choose a clamp unless you have a specific reason.
Seal any drilled base properly. Put sealant under the plate, bed it, and re-seal the screw holes so water does not wick into the core.
Aluminum is stiff, light and cheap, and it is the right default for freshwater. Composite never corrodes, which makes it the better choice in salt water or in brackish estuary water. Stainless steel hardware, and specifically 304 stainless, resists the fastener corrosion that actually starts most failures.
Regardless of material, rinse the mount with fresh water after salt exposure and check fasteners seasonally. Salt deposits on an aluminum bracket do damage quietly over months.
For small boats, thrust bands run roughly 30 to 46 lbs below 16 feet, and 36 to 55 lbs from 16 to 20 feet. The caveat matters more than the number: a small hull can be overpowered into twitchy steering, and a motor rated well above what the hull needs will make small-boat fishing harder rather than faster.
Whatever thrust you choose, keep the motor family compatibility list in front of you. Every mount in this roundup names specific motor families or shaft sizes it does not support, and the universal brackets here are rated to 3 hp electric only.
If your boat lives outdoors or at a marina, a padlock-ready handle is worth paying for. The RTA-17, MKA-21 and Haswing bracket all accept a padlock, though the padlock itself is generally not included.
For trailering with the motor installed, quick release turns an annoying chore into a ten-second job. Tin Boats forum owners describe a quick-detach bow mount as their single best investment for exactly this reason, and it is the reason our Editor’s Choice ranks where it does. If you are constantly moving the motor in and out, a bolt-on plate is the wrong category.
Once the mount is settled, the install is the same on every boat: marine-grade connectors, strain relief on every cable, a dedicated breaker sized to the motor, and a battery box that stays dry. Match the battery voltage to the motor, and run the cable so it cannot chafe where it crosses an edge.
If you are adding a second battery for runtime, fuse each lead separately rather than doubling the cable. A dedicated breaker protects the boat more effectively than a heavier wire alone.
Mount it on the bow if your boat has deck structure and you want better steering control, and on the transom if deck space is tight or your hull has no forward mounting point. On small jon boats, dinghies and narrow skiffs, the transom position usually wins because a bow puck eats standing room. Many owners run the motor on the transom for fishing and reposition it by hand when they need bow control.
No. Mounts fall into distinct categories: bow quick-release brackets that leave a small puck on deck, transom mounts that clamp to the stern, deck clamps for clamp-on motors, and stabilizer supports that steady the shaft rather than hold the motor. Materials differ too, with composite for saltwater and aluminum for freshwater. Compatibility is usually limited to named motor families, shaft lengths or thrust ratings.
Measure three things before ordering: transom width at its narrowest point, transom thickness so you know whether the supplied bolts will pass through, and lip angle if you plan to clamp on. For a gunnel clamp, measure gunnel width and depth instead. Then confirm your motor brand and thrust rating appear in the mount compatibility list, because most brackets support specific motor families only.
A true bow quick-release puck generally needs deck structure a kayak does not have, so most kayak owners use a universal transom mount that bolts to the stern instead. Those universal brackets clamp on electric trolling motors up to 3 hp and install with four drilled holes. Expect to add weight to the boat, since a mount rated for 55 to 80 lb of thrust adds real pounds to a craft you lift solo.
Yes, on a small hull. A clamp-on motor hung off an angled transom lip adds drag and can stop a lightly loaded hull from planing properly, which small-boat owners report often. Removing the motor before you run to open water solves it completely. If you leave it installed, a quick-release mount makes removal a ten-second job rather than a rigging project.
Most do not. Quick-release bow brackets and universal transom mounts bolt through the deck with stainless hardware, and gunnel clamps need no modification at all. Welded and drilled plates are the traditional choice for permanent installations, and owners of fiberglass hulls generally prefer to avoid them because it risks the core and is hard to reverse.
If your boat has a usable bow deck and you want the least fuss on and off the water, the Minn Kota MKA-21 is the one to buy. Its footprint on the deck is the smallest we measured, its rigidity holds up under trailer bounces, and it is the pick we would put on our own small boat.
For a jon boat or flat-bottom utility hull that has never taken a drill, the EZ Mount changes what the boat can do, and nothing else in this roundup does that. For saltwater, the RTA-17 is the composite build that will not pit. For a kayak or very small craft where you want real thrust rather than a token motor, the two universal transom mounts handle up to 3 hp electric, with the cast aluminum version built tougher.
If your real problem is a motor head banging the hull or a shaft bouncing over wakes, add a stabilizer support instead of replacing the mount, and pick the drilled aluminum version unless your boat has a gunnel track. If you already own a setup and just need a spare transom bracket, the Endura part number is the spare to have in the glove box.
Whatever you choose, measure the boat before you order, confirm the motor family is on the compatibility list, and bring your own stainless hardware. Those three steps prevent nearly every return in this category. Our 2026 picks above are the ones we would put on our own hulls, and we would rather help you measure correctly once than sell you a bracket that has to come back.