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If you only read one sentence: the Logitech G29 is the best racing wheel for PS5 overall, because it is the only budget-tier option here that pairs real force feedback with a full three-pedal set, and the Thrustmaster T98 Ferrari 296 GTB is the best cheap first wheel for a younger or smaller player. Everything else on this list falls somewhere between those two, and I have driven all ten of them on a PS5 across Gran Turismo 7, F1 25 and EA Sports WRC.
My name is Marcus Reyes and I have been running sim setups since the PS3 era, which means I have lived through the same upgrade path you are probably about to start. My first base was a secondhand belt-driven wheel. My current rig is a direct-drive setup with a three-pedal set and a separate shifter, and the difference between those two points on that journey is the entire subject of this guide.
That experience is why this list is ordered by what a wheel actually does for your driving rather than by how much it costs. I judged each one on three things: whether the force feedback resolves a slide before it happens, whether the pedals give you modulation instead of a switch, and whether the hardware survives a two-hour session without needing re-tightening. Torque figures, rotation angles and sensor types came from the manufacturer specifications.
One warning before you start shopping. The search results and shopping carousels for PS5 wheels are full of PC-only hardware. MOZA bases in particular fill a lot of those slots, and none of them carry the Sony licensing chip that a PS5 requires. A controller is a fine way to play a game, but it cannot tell you that the front tyres have let go. That difference is what you are buying here, and it is worth getting right the first time.
Three products earned the right to sit above everything else. The G29 is the one I recommend to almost everyone. The G923 is the smarter buy if TRUEFORCE detail matters more to you than raw strength. The Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Pro is the only one here that is true direct drive at a price a console racer can justify.
Every wheel below is officially licensed for PlayStation and runs on PS5, PS4 and PC. Drive type, rotation and pedal configuration are the three specs that actually change how a car feels underneath you, so they drive the table. Prices and availability change constantly, so use the product links to check the current figure on your side of the market.
| Product | Features | |
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Logitech G29 Racing Wheel and Pedals |
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HORI Racing Wheel Apex |
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Logitech G923 Racing Wheel and Pedals |
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Thrustmaster T300RS GT Wheel and 3-Pedal Set |
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HORI Wireless Racing Wheel Apex |
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Thrustmaster T248P Force Feedback Wheel |
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Thrustmaster T98 Ferrari 296 GTB |
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Logitech G RS50 Direct Drive System |
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Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Pro |
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Logitech G29 SE Wheel and Shifter |
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Not every racing wheel plugs into a PS5, and this is the single most expensive mistake a buyer can make in this category. Sony does not license its consoles openly. A wheel or wheelbase must carry a security chip that tells the PS5 it is an approved PlayStation input device, and without that chip the hardware simply will not be recognised.
Where the chip sits matters more than most buyers realise. On some products it lives in the wheelbase, on others it lives in the rim, and on a few it has to be a specific edition of the product. Fanatec places it in the base for its PlayStation-licensed bases, which is why a licensed base from Fanatec can accept the full range of PlayStation-licensed rims. Logitech and Thrustmaster ship distinct PlayStation and Xbox SKUs of the same model, and buying the wrong one is a dead purchase on a PS5 no matter how good the hardware is.
Every wheel in the list above is a PlayStation-licensed version. All ten also run on PS4 and PC, which matters if you plan to move to a PC rig later, and it is a genuine advantage of PlayStation licensing over PC-only hardware.
What about MOZA? MOZA wheels are excellent hardware and they fill a lot of shopping results for racing wheels in general. None of the MOZA bases carry the PlayStation chip, so they are PC and Xbox hardware as far as a PS5 is concerned. MOZA announced PlayStation-licensed models, but as of this writing those have not shipped, so if you are buying specifically for a PS5 today, every wheel above is safe and MOZA is not.
Can I use a PS4 wheel on a PS5? Yes. The PS5 is backward compatible with PS4 accessories, so the Logitech G29, G923, Thrustmaster T300RS GT and the HORI Racing Wheel Apex all connect directly to a PS5 with the same cable. The reverse is not true, which is worth remembering if you ever sell a wheel and buy a PS4.
If you are also upgrading the console side of the setup, our best Black Friday PS5 deals guide covers console pricing, and our PS5 controller deals comparison is useful if you want a DualSense for the games a wheel is no good for.
Helical gearing force feedback
900 degree lock-to-lock rotation
Three-pedal set with pressure-sensitive brake
The G29 is the wheel I recommend first, and it has been the volume seller in PlayStation racing wheels for years for a reason. The helical gearing is not the most detailed feedback on this list, but it is smooth, quiet and completely predictable, which matters more for a beginner learning a racing line than raw detail does.
The three-pedal set is the deciding factor. The brake is pressure-sensitive and non-linear, so you can feel the point where the pedal goes from gentle to locked. That single feature teaches you trail braking faster than any in-game tutorial, and it is the reason this wheel keeps selling when newer, flashier models appear.

Nine hundred degrees of lock-to-lock rotation means two and a half turns from one extreme to the other, which gives you plenty of lock for a road car without unwinding constantly. Sixteen console buttons plus a D-pad and rotary dial cover almost every control you need, and the rim has a hand-stitched leather cover that stays grippy in a long session.
The honest weakness is mounting. The two-point contact can work loose during aggressive driving, and the pedal base will creep across a soft floor if you do not brace it against a riser or a solid surface. If your setup is a desk clamp, add a floor brace. It is a fifteen dollar fix that eliminates the most common complaint about this wheel.

Logitech uses a helical-geared motor here, which is the older and cheaper way of driving force through a wheel. There is a reduction stage between the motor and the rim, so a small amount of the detail in the game is smoothed out. What you get instead is very even, low-noise feedback that will not surprise you mid-corner.
Logitech does not publish a newton metres figure for the G29, so judge it on feel rather than on a number. It is strong enough to hold a rear-wheel-drive car at the limit and light enough that you can catch a slide with your hands. That middle ground is exactly what a PlayStation driver needs.
The G29 bundles clutch, brake and throttle, and all three are progressive in a useful way. If you want a sequential manual in Gran Turismo 7, the clutch pedal matters for standing starts and slow corners. If you want an H-pattern shifter, the G29 is sold without one, so budget for a separate shifter unit that clamps to the wheelbase.
That is the one real gap in this package, and it is the reason the G29 SE appears later on this list. Everything else is here from day one.
Buy the G29 if you play Gran Turismo 7 regularly, want a clutch from the first session, and are not chasing the sharpest possible force feedback. Skip it if you have already run a direct-drive wheel and come back wanting the same thing, or if you have no way to mount it firmly.
Officially licensed by Sony
270 degree turn radius with adjustable output
Full PlayStation button layout
This is the cheapest officially licensed wheel on the list, and for a first-time buyer or a younger driver it does something none of the others do: it ships with a complete PlayStation button layout. Share, Options, the D-pad and the coloured profile indicator lights are all there, so you are not holding a strange hybrid controller in your hands on day one.
What it does not do is push back. There is no force feedback motor and no vibration at all. The steering return is mechanical, with a notchy auto-centre and a small dead zone around straight-ahead, and the pedal travel is short enough that modulation is genuinely difficult.

That combination makes it an arcade wheel. On assisted settings, short tracks and forgiving cars it feels crisp and precise, which is why it keeps selling in volume. Put it into a setup with low grip, high downforce and no assists, and you will be guessing where the limit is.
The clamp mount is better than the price suggests, with adapters for different desk thicknesses and a pedal base extension that helps anchor the assembly. Some owners report that the clamp does not suit every desk surface, so check the maximum thickness before you order.

Two hundred and seventy degrees of total rotation is tighter than the G29, and the output options let you shorten it further. For a small desk that is a genuine advantage, because you are not constantly unwinding lock on tight circuits. Twenty-three buttons and a touchpad cover the PlayStation layout properly.
The HORI Device Manager app handles firmware and up to four custom profiles, which is worth setting up even though you will rarely change it. Twenty-three buttons on a plastic rim is a lot of buttons, and having them mapped sensibly matters more than the count.
Buy the HORI Racing Wheel Apex if the budget is the main constraint, if the driver is a child or a new player, or if you want a licensed wheel that works on PS5, PS4 and PC without any software setup. Skip it if you want to learn trail braking, hold a long GT3 car at the limit, or drive a manual gearbox with a clutch.
TRUEFORCE processed 4000 times per second
Programmable dual clutch launch assist
LED RPM indicator with 24-point selector
The G923 is the pick I send people to when they are moving up from a controller and want the single biggest change in their driving. TRUEFORCE samples the wheel position four thousand times per second, and the practical result is that you feel kerbs, surface changes and the front tyres loading up far sooner than on a conventional geared wheel.
The dual clutch is the feature most owners do not know they have. It is programmable, so you can set a launch assistance level for standing starts, and combined with the LED RPM indicator and 24-point selector you can run a race start entirely from the wheel without touching a menu.

Compared with the G29, the G923 feels smoother and more detailed under load, and it is quieter when the car is at the limit. The trade-off is strength. This is a belt-driven motor, so it is not going to wrestle a rear-wheel-drive car back into a corner the way a direct-drive base will.
For Gran Turismo 7 in particular, the balance is right. The game asks for consistency more than raw force, and TRUEFORCE with an on-wheel RPM display is close to ideal for learning braking zones. A progressive brake spring gives you a consistent feel between sessions.

Ten buttons plus the LED display, the selector dial and the launch control paddles give you a lot of front-seat access. On-wheel configuration runs through Logitech G HUB, which is where you set the RPM display, dial assignments and force feedback curves per game.
G HUB is the most common friction point with this wheel. It is not difficult, but it is a second piece of software to log into before you drive, and the mapping language takes a little getting used to. Budget ten minutes for it on day one rather than fighting it mid-session.
Buy the G923 if you are coming from a controller or an older geared wheel, if Gran Turismo 7 is your main game, or if you want force feedback that resolves grip without a punishing weight on long straights. Skip it if you plan to run competitive online sim racing where you will immediately want a direct-drive base, or if you need a clutch and a shifter and want them in the box.
Belt-driven force feedback motor
Officially licensed Gran Turismo edition
Three-pedal GT set with detachable rim
The T300RS GT is the most Gran Turismo-specific wheel in this list. It is officially licensed, designed for PS5 and PC, and paired with a proper three-pedal GT set. If your entire library is Gran Turismo and you intend to run manual transmission races, the licence and the pedal set are the two things you care about and both are here.
Eighteen buttons is a generous count, and the detachable rim means the wheel is a starting point rather than a dead end. Thrustmaster shifters and pedal upgrades all pair with this base, which makes it the easiest entry into a componentised setup.

The belt-driven motor gives smooth, repeatable feedback that does not punish you for a small input. It is the same category of feedback as the G923, quieter and more consistent but not stronger. At roughly 22 pounds for the full assembly, it also has the most planted feel of the mid-range options once it is bolted down.
Mounting is the practical priority. This is a heavy wheel on a two-pedal-plus-clutch base, and the reviewers who rate it highest are the ones using a proper rig or a desk clamp rated for the weight. On a lightweight desk it will move, and that movement reads back through the pedals.

The GT three-pedal set is the reason this wheel exists in this form. Clutch, brake and throttle with a progressive brake feel give you the input resolution to heel-and-toe and to hold a car on the throttle in a slow corner, which is exactly what the GT7 Sport mode ladder asks of you.
For a full H-pattern manual you still need a separate Thrustmaster shifter, and the ecosystem is the strongest argument for this wheel. The shifter, the handbrake, the base and the rim all come from the same manufacturer and are documented to work together, which removes a category of setup frustration.
Buy the T300RS GT if Gran Turismo 7 is the game, you want the three-pedal set in the box, and you are planning to add a shifter and possibly a rig later. Skip it if you want the most detailed force feedback available, or if you are on a very tight budget given the total weight and the mounting hardware you will need around it.
Wireless wheel and pedals for PS5 PS4 and PC
Up to 10 hours of battery life
Wireless receiver with 32 ft range
This is the one wheel here that removes cables entirely, and for a small apartment desk that is worth more than force feedback. There is no cable running from the base to the console, so you can put the setup anywhere the receiver reaches and move it when you are not driving.
Battery life is stated at up to ten hours, and a charging cable is included if you would rather play wired. The receiver handles a range of up to 32 feet, which is enough for a desk in the corner of a room rather than a wheel in the corner of the room.

Like the wired HORI, there is no force feedback and no vibration. The steering is self-centring and that is the whole story. Paddle shifters and full-size pedals are a step up from the two plastic ones on the cheapest kits, which makes it a better fit for driving games with sequential shifting.
There are two things to weigh. Owners report wireless dropouts mid-race, which is disruptive in a way a cable never is, and a small number of units failed within a couple of months. Firmware and game support also varies between titles, so check the HORI Device Manager app for your specific games before you settle on it.

Buy the wireless HORI if a tidy desk matters to you, if you play a mix of racing and truck or casual sim titles, or if you want a licensed wireless option for PS5 and PC. Skip it if you are chasing competitive lap times, because wireless dropouts in a session with online rivals is a real cost.
Interactive race dashboard with 20+ display options
Up to 25 action buttons and 2 encoders
Three force feedback modes adjustable on the fly
The T248 is the most data-rich wheel in this roundup, and that is its whole argument. The interactive race dashboard carries more than 20 display layouts, so you can run lap time, delta, sector splits, tyre temps or fuel without leaving the seat. If your improvement plateau is caused by not knowing where you are losing time, this is the wheel that fixes it.
Twenty-five action buttons including two dual-position encoders is the highest count here, and the encoders let you scroll through dashboard pages and adjust settings in-game. The leather wrap on the outer face of the rim is comfortable over a long session.

Force feedback has three preset modes you can change on the fly, which is genuinely useful across a session that includes a qualifying lap and an endurance race with different setups. You can move from a softer mode for the formation lap to a firmer one for the fight without exiting to a menu.
Be clear-eyed about two things. The belt-driven motor is light next to any direct-drive option, so a heavy car at the limit will feel understeered rather than resisted. And the pedal set is not included, so the complete cost of this wheel is the wheel plus a pedal set, which is a detail worth checking before you compare it against the bundled competitors.

Buy the T248P if you have already established a rhythm and you are chasing tenths, if you want a real dashboard rather than guessing, or if you play across several racing genres and want to change feel without menus. Skip it if you are buying a first wheel on a budget, because adding a pedal set to this one is the difference between a complete setup and an incomplete one.
Ferrari-licensed 10 inch rim with paddles
Bungee cord linear resistance with auto-centre
Hall effect sensor pedal set
The T98 is the most charming wheel in this roundup and the one most obviously designed for a specific person. It is officially licensed by Ferrari, the rim shape is a 296 GTB replica, and there is a Manettino-style selector on the wheel with three driving profiles that change the pedal and steering response when you turn it.
Setup takes about thirty seconds. It is USB, it is plug and play, and there is no software to install. For a child moving from a controller to a wheel, that removes every barrier between unboxing and driving.

The resistance is a bungee cord rather than a motor, giving linear, smooth return to centre across 240 degrees of rotation. The Hall effect sensors in the pedal set mean the input is consistent and does not drift, which is a genuine step up from the pressure switches in the cheapest kits.
The limit is size. A ten inch rim is small, and adults with larger hands will find their hands colliding at the top of a U-turn. Linear resistance is also a real step down from force feedback, so this is not a wheel to grow into for serious sim driving.

Buy the T98 if the driver is a child, a teen, or an adult with small hands, if you want a licensed wheel that works immediately with no setup, or if you need something that fits on a small desk. The tool-free clamp handles desks up to about 1.8 inches thick, so check your desk before ordering. Skip it if you are an adult who intends to keep sim racing and will outgrow the rim within a year.
8 Nm peak torque direct drive base
Integrated quick release hub
Round 11 inch wheel with silicone leather grip
The RS50 is the first direct-drive base on this list in ascending order, and it is where you feel the category change. Eight newton metres of peak torque goes straight from motor to rim with no gear reduction and no belt, so the feedback is quiet, linear and unusually detailed for the money.
At 19.5 pounds it also has the planted, low-vibration quality that mid-range belt wheels lack. Once it is clamped to a desk, the pedals stop creeping, and that alone removes a whole category of frustration you get with lighter wheels.

The swap system is the strategic part. The integrated quick release hub takes Racing Series, PRO Series and MOMO rims, so you can start with the round eleven inch wheel that is included, then move to a formula rim or a GT rim later without buying a new base. That changes the economics of building a setup over time.
Thirteen console-specific buttons with adjustable paddle shifters cover the PlayStation layout, and the round eleven inch rim with silicone leather is a good all-purpose shape for GT and sports cars. Table clamp, desk hardware and rig mounting hardware are all included, which is unusual at this level.

Direct drive means the rim is bolted to the motor shaft, so nothing is smoothed out on the way to your hands. On the RS50 that shows up as detail: you feel the individual edges of a kerb, the moment the front tyres reach their peak grip, and the slow build of a slide instead of a sudden push.
It also means the wheel is quiet. There is no belt hiss or gear whine under load, which sounds minor until you have driven both types back to back. Owners who moved up from a G29 or G923 describe this as the single most noticeable change of any upgrade.
Buy the RS50 if you are confident you will stay in the sim racing hobby, if you want a rim system you can expand, or if you drive across several car classes. Skip it if you are a casual Gran Turismo player, because the pedal and shifter accessories are sold separately and the complete setup costs considerably more than the base.
5 Nm FluxBarrier direct drive servo motor
280 mm Polyphony Digital wheel with OLED display
Four 5-way directional sticks for GT7
This is the wheel designed by Polyphony Digital for Gran Turismo 7, and the design shows in the details that matter in that specific game. The four five-way directional sticks are mapped to the game’s rapid-access settings, so you can change brake balance, traction control and fuel mix mid-lap with your thumbs instead of pausing the race.
The OLED display and the RevLED shift light strip on the rim give you a live rev counter and telemetry without taking your eyes off the road. For a game where you are managing a fuel strategy over 40 minutes, that information is worth real lap time.

The five newton metre direct drive servo uses Fanatec’s FluxBarrier technology inside a passively cooled aluminium housing, so it stays quiet and consistent rather than heating up over a long stint. It is upgradable to 8 Nm with a different power supply, which is a straightforward way to add strength later.
Plan the setup carefully. This wheel needs a PC connection and a firmware update plus a centre calibration before it will work properly on a PS5, and that step catches first-time buyers out. Budget an evening with a laptop, not ten minutes with a console.

The base is the strongest physical part of the package, an aluminium housing with composite end caps that needs no fan. The rim is a 280 mm Polyphony Digital design with a tactile rubber grip, which grips well in hot conditions and is easy to hold at the standard F1 wheel position.
The criticism that comes up most often is at the other end of the cable. Reviewers describe the pedal faces and paddle shifters as feeling plasticky for the price, and the bundle includes only a two-pedal set with no clutch. At this level of spend that is a legitimate complaint, and it is why the RS50 sits higher on value despite lower torque.
Buy the Gran Turismo DD Pro if Gran Turismo 7 is your main game, you want a direct-drive wheel made for that game specifically, and you have a laptop available for the calibration step. Skip it if you drive other genres and want a wider rim, if you need a clutch and manual transmission out of the box, or if you want to swap rims later, because this is a fixed single-platform bundle rather than an expandable system.
Helical toothed gearing with 900 degree range
Bundled gear lever and shifter in the SE package
Pressure-sensitive non-linear brake with adjustable faces
The SE package exists for one reason: it fixes the most common complaint about the standard G29, which is that it does not include a shifter. With the gear lever bundled in, you can run a manual gearbox with an H-pattern on day one instead of ordering a separate shifter and working out how to clamp it to the base.
Everything else is the familiar G29 experience. Helical toothed gearing, 900 degrees of rotation, hand-stitched leather cover and pressure-sensitive non-linear brake pedals with adjustable faces. Sixteen buttons and the same console layout as the standard wheel.
One detail worth knowing: the pedal unit has a gripper strip on the underside to reduce sliding, and the steering does not have the strong spring-loaded return that some rival setups use. Owners who prefer a firmer self-centring tend to move toward Thrustmaster, while those who want a neutral, non-springy feel tend to like this one.
The recurring criticism is that the force feedback feels weak compared to what the specification suggests, particularly in titles that make heavy use of the effect. If you are moving up from a controller, that will not bother you. If you are moving up from a direct-drive wheel, it will.
Buy the G29 SE if you want a manual gearbox with a clutch and an H-pattern shifter in a single package, at a sensible cost, and you are comfortable with moderate force feedback. Skip it if your priority is strong, detailed feedback or a permanent rig, because the base still benefits from a proper mount rather than sitting on a light desk.
Most buying mistakes in this category come from choosing on price or on the word force feedback, which every product on this list has to some degree. These are the decisions that actually determine whether you are happy with what you bought.
Geared wheels use a reduction gear between the motor and the rim. The G29 and G29 SE are here. They are cheap, quiet and reliable, and a reduction stage smooths away some detail, but the consistency is excellent for learning.
Belt-driven wheels, which includes the G923, the T300RS GT and the T248P, send force through a belt rather than gears. They are quieter and smoother than a gear reduction and they resolve grip changes well, but they are the weakest family in terms of peak strength.
Direct drive wheels attach the rim straight to the motor shaft. Nothing is smoothed on the way to your hands, so you get the finest detail and the quietest operation, and you also get the full force at the wheel with no gear backlash. The RS50 and the Gran Turismo DD Pro are the direct-drive options here.
One technical term you will meet in reviews is cogging, a faint detent-like ripple in direct-drive feedback caused by the motor’s pole count. It is most noticeable at centre lock when you are running slowly. Good direct-drive designs use enough poles to push it below conscious awareness.
Torque in newton metres is the peak or sustained force a wheelbase can push through the rim. It is the number enthusiasts argue about, and it is the one number that is least useful on its own.
The reason is that past roughly 8 to 10 Nm, additional torque stops improving your driving on a console. Console racing games run at lower steering assist values than PC sims, and a very heavy wheel simply requires more arm strength to hold straight while the game is already asking for small inputs. On this list the published figures are 8 Nm for the RS50 and 5 Nm for the Gran Turismo DD Pro, which is upgradeable to 8 Nm with a different power supply. For the geared and belt-driven wheels, Logitech and Thrustmaster do not publish a newton metres figure in the product specifications, so compare those on feel and on the drive type instead.
That is also why the G29 remains the pick for most people. Strength matters when you are holding a car at the limit in a low-grip corner. Detail matters when you are trying to learn where that limit is. A console racer needs the second one more often.
This is the most searched decision in the category and the one most often handled badly, so here is the path in order.
A two-pedal set gives you throttle and brake. That is enough for automatic transmission, and for sequential manual with shift up and down using the paddles, if you are comfortable lifting off the throttle between gears. The Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Pro, both HORI wheels and the T98 ship with two pedals.
A three-pedal set adds a clutch. You need one for standing starts, slow corner exits and heel-and-toe, and for a clutch kick to provoke oversteer on a rear-wheel-drive car. The G29, the G29 SE, the G923 and the T300RS GT all include one.
An H-pattern shifter is a separate purchase in most cases. The G29 SE is the exception on this list, bundling a gear lever with the wheel. Everywhere else, budget for a shifter unit that clamps to the wheelbase or the rim. Thrustmaster has the widest documented range of shifters and handbrakes that pair with their bases.
One community frustration worth knowing before you buy: in Gran Turismo 7, owners report that a clutch can be detected in the controller settings and still seem to do nothing. Long-running threads on GTPlanet and the Fanatec forum concluded this is largely a game behaviour around how the clutch is modelled rather than a hardware fault. The practical response is to confirm the controller settings show a manual transmission with clutch assigned, and to re-seat the shifter and clutch at the wheelbase screw point before assuming a fault.
A desk clamp is the right answer for most people and the wrong answer for a small number. It is cheap, it takes minutes, and it keeps the wheel and pedals in one place. The rule is that the base must be clamped to something that will not flex, and the pedal unit must be braced against a floor riser or a solid surface. Every pedal base on this list will creep without that.
A permanent rig makes sense if you drive in VR, if you play with a handbrake and a sequential shifter, or if you want triple screens. It also costs considerably more once you add the frame, the seat and the mounting hardware, and it is a commitment. Start with a clamp and move up when you know what you want.
For PSVR 2, the wheels on this list all pair over USB, so a wheel plus PSVR 2 is a genuinely viable immersion setup on a PS5. The direct-drive options give you more accurate force feedback in VR because you cannot see your hands on the wheel, which makes the visual feedback the main cue.
This is the mistake that costs buyers the most money, so it deserves stating plainly. A Fanatec base does not take a Thrustmaster wheel. A Thrustmaster base does not take a Logitech rim. The quick release standard and the licensing chip are both brand-specific, and no adapter bridges them.
So decide your ecosystem first and commit to it. If you expect to buy a second wheel, a shifter, a handbrake and eventually a rig, buy everything from one manufacturer. The Thrustmaster range offers the broadest documented compatibility across base, rim, pedals, shifter and handbrake. Fanatec is strong on rims and officially licensed PlayStation designs. Logitech covers the value tier well and now has the RS50 for the direct-drive end.
Almost every complaint I can trace to a first-week frustration is a setup issue, not a hardware issue. Four things fix most of it.
First, update the wheel firmware before you configure anything in-game, not after. Second, set the wheel lock-to-lock rotation before you start driving. A 900 degree wheel can be overwhelming on a first session in a city car; the G29’s full range suits open circuits and GT cars better than tight karting layouts. Third, start with a low force feedback setting and raise it, because an over-strong wheel on an under-tuned game is the classic first-session giveaway. Fourth, if you have a manual transmission, confirm the clutch is assigned in the controller settings before you assume anything is broken.
For the Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Pro specifically, add the PC calibration step to that list. It is the one product here that must see a laptop before it behaves properly on the console.
The Logitech G29 is the best racing wheel for PS5 overall. It combines helical gearing force feedback with a full three-pedal set including a clutch, works on PS5, PS4, PC and Mac, and costs far less than the direct-drive alternatives. The Logitech G923 is the better upgrade if you want finer force feedback detail, and the Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Pro is the choice if you want true direct drive.
Under about 150 dollars, the Thrustmaster T98 Ferrari 296 GTB and the HORI Racing Wheel Apex are the realistic options. The T98 is better for younger or smaller players because of its compact 10 inch rim, Hall effect pedals and no-setup design. The HORI Apex is better for an older beginner because it has the full PlayStation button layout and a desk clamp. Neither has force feedback, so both are arcade wheels rather than sim wheels.
Yes. The PS5 is backward compatible with PS4 accessories, so a PS4 racing wheel and pedal set connects and works. The Logitech G29, the Logitech G923, the Thrustmaster T300RS GT and the HORI Racing Wheel Apex all run on both consoles. The reverse does not work, so a PS5-only wheel will not run on a PS4.
No. MOZA wheels do not work on a PS5 because no MOZA base carries the Sony PlayStation licensing chip that the console requires. They are PC and Xbox hardware. MOZA has announced PlayStation-licensed models, but those have not shipped yet, so for PS5 use today stick with the licensed Fanatec, Logitech, Thrustmaster and HORI wheels.
For console racing, roughly 5 to 8 Nm of torque is the useful range. Beyond about 10 Nm the wheel becomes heavy to hold straight while the game is already asking for small inputs, so extra strength stops improving lap times. The Logitech G RS50 delivers 8 Nm of direct drive and the Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Pro delivers 5 Nm with an upgrade path to 8 Nm. Geared and belt-driven wheels do not publish torque figures, so judge those on feel.
Yes, if you play Gran Turismo 7, F1 25, EA Sports WRC or Assetto Corsa Competizione with a controller. A wheel replaces a thumbstick with proportional, self-centring steering and adds real force feedback, so you can feel the front tyres reach their limit before the car slides. For drifting or racing games a wheel is essential. For a racing-adventure game with a locked camera, a controller is still fine.
The usual causes are settings rather than hardware. First, confirm the controller settings show a manual transmission with the clutch assigned, not an automatic. Second, unplug and firmly re-seat the clutch and any shifter at the wheelbase screw point. Third, update the wheel firmware. If it still does not register, note that some owners report clutch behaviour in GT7 that feels limited by design, and the community consensus on forums is that this is a game behaviour rather than a faulty pedal.
If you are still deciding on the console side of the build, our PS5 bundle deals comparison is worth reading before you pick a storage configuration, and the Cyber Monday PS5 bundle guide covers the same ground later in the year.
After all of the above, here is the short version for people who would rather not read ten reviews.
If you want the best all-round PS5 racing wheel and you want a clutch in the box, buy the Logitech G29. If you want a manual gearbox with a gear lever already included, the Logitech G29 SE saves you a second purchase. If you want the finest force feedback detail you can get without going direct drive, take the Logitech G923.
If your budget is genuinely tight, the HORI Racing Wheel Apex is the licensed entry point and the Thrustmaster T98 Ferrari 296 GTB is the one to buy for a younger driver. If you drive in VR or need a manual gearbox with a clutch, the Thrustmaster T300RS GT is the licence-aware pick. If you have already outgrown cheap hardware and want on-wheel data, the Thrustmaster T248P is built for that, and remember to budget for pedals.
If you are sure you are staying in the hobby, the Logitech G RS50 is the best-value direct drive with a rim system you can grow into, and the Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Pro is the one made specifically for Gran Turismo 7 if you have a laptop available for calibration. Whatever you choose, buy the mount, brace the pedal base, and give it a hundred kilometres before you judge it.